OUR PORTERS

     The Kili summiters we spoke to before our climb told amazing tales of their porters.  The theme was that they would not have made the summit without them.  Our porters more than lived up to those expectations.
     We had about 100 porters for our group of 32 clients.  Porters fall into different groups starting with the younger ones who carry our food, tents, duffel bags, porta-johns, etc.  Much of this gear is carried on their heads as they weave their way up steep trails!  Assistant guides are next, followed by the cook (very imp.!) and the chief guide (Mickie--who climbed Kili over 200 times!)

     Assistant guides have worked their way up from porters, have climbed Kili anywhere from 20-100 times.  They are invaluable to us clients.    As you climb, assistant guides walk beside you and start up very interesting conversations.  They love to tell you the names of birds and plants, tell you to walk Pole Pole (slowly, slowly) and learn about your country.  Baraka (think Barack Obama), a tall, elegant Maasi Warrior and Alpha (brother is named Omega!) usually walked with me.  They patiently taught me Swahili words.  They asked questions about the US and George Bush (they didn't like him).

     The kindness of the guides and porters moved me to tears many times, especially as the rain made our climb so difficult.  When the rain first began, Alpha opened my back pack, took out my rainpants, helped me put them on and zip up properly.  He double-checked things, such as making sure my camera stayed dry.  Tuesday night we arrived late in camp and I was trying to figure out how to sleep on a wet mat.  A porter offered to take off his jacket and put it down on the mat for the night!  He even offered to switch his dry mat for my wet one!  He was willing to be wet, while I stayed dry.  In the end, I used Dave's space blanket between my mat and sleeping bag--but what amazing generosity!

     It gets better.  On the 2nd day, I started out with Martina, where we had a fascinating chat as we climbed.  After an hour or so, I was winded at her pace and dropped to the back.  Alpha was suddenly there to encourage me, checked the weight of my pack and took out about 1/2 of what I was carrying, plus my 2 water bottles.  This happened day after day, until finally on the last day, my guide carried my entire pack, while another carried Dave's pack.  The guides helped you up/down the steep scrambles and for the summiters, they literally kept you standing as you stumbled from the altitude.  They loved to sing to you as we climbed--Swhahili songs, but even more, Bob Marley songs. 

     They had a positive attitude and reminded you that would would make it to the summit.  Friday was my hardest day.  Martina had been rescued during the night and Denise had to descent with altitude sickness.  We climbed to 15,300 ft from Horombu Camp to Barrafu.  The snowstorm was especially bad.  The walk was meant to be 5 hours, but it took Dave and me 7 hours, climbing two steep, high ridges.  We were all getting pretty cold and soaked.  A porter ran ahead to the cook and returned with cups and a thermos of soup!  The warmth of that soup kept us going another 2-3 hours!  Baraka kept telling me he knew I was climbing strong and would summit.  He emphasized that I had no symptoms of altitude sickness and would definitely make it that night. 

     So--the porters and guides are special.  It's easy to give them gear when you are done.  Dave and I dropped our down jackets into the gear bag, plus my gaiters, my MP3player and my watch.

     Dave and I were in our tent at midnight on summit night when our group left for the top.  We could hear the guides singing loudly and happily as a way to encourage the summit team all the way to the top!  These guys are the ultimate positive psychologists!

still exhausted,
Linda